Natural Swimming Pool Design – Explore Ideas, Layouts & Visualizer

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Natural Pool Design Visualizer

Design Your
Natural Swimming Pool

Design your chemical-free natural swimming pool or swimming pond. Choose pool type, shape, regeneration zone, plants, liner, entry, deck, and landscape. The live preview updates with every choice.

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Design Your Natural Pool, One Decision at a Time

A natural swimming pool cleans its water through biological filtration: aquatic plants, gravel biofilm substrates, and the natural microbial ecology of a living water body rather than chlorine, bromine, or UV sterilization. The result is water that is genuinely clean, safe to swim in, and alive with beneficial microorganisms that support rather than replace natural immunity. It is also a garden feature that looks beautiful in every season, not just when someone is swimming.

Every natural pool is different because every site, every design brief, and every owner’s relationship with nature is different. This tool walks through all 19 decisions in sequence, from pool style and shape through regeneration zone design, plant selection, liner, entry, deck, and surrounding landscape. Work through all 19 steps and you will have a complete natural pool design brief to bring to your designer or contractor.

Step 1 of 19: Pool Style5%
Step 1 of 19
Pool Style / Type
Choose the fundamental character of your natural pool.

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Natural Pool Guide

What Is a Natural Swimming Pool?

A natural swimming pool, also called a natural swimming pond, bio pool, NSP, or chemical-free pool, is a body of water kept safe and clear for swimming through biological processes rather than chemical disinfection. The water is cleaned by aquatic plants, gravel biofilm substrates, and the natural microbial ecology of a living freshwater environment. There is no chlorine, no bromine, no pH adjusters, and no chemical shock treatment. The result is water that is genuinely alive, soft to the skin, and safe to swallow in small quantities.

Natural Swimming Pool vs Swimming Pond vs Bio Pool

These three terms describe related but distinct approaches. A natural swimming pool (NSP) typically uses an engineered system with a defined swim zone and a separate regeneration zone, often with a low-energy pump to circulate water through the planted area. The design is intentional and the swim zone is clearly separated from the plant zone. A swimming pond is the European term for a naturalistic water body where swimming and ecology coexist with minimal engineering intervention. The pond character dominates and plants may grow throughout rather than in a defined zone. A bio pool typically refers to a more engineered approach where biological filtration is the primary cleaning mechanism, sometimes with a UV sterilizer as a backup for the clearest possible water. All three are chemical-free. The differences are in formality, engineering depth, and how prominently the swimming function is prioritized over the ecological function.

Shop EPDM Pond Liners on AmazonHeavy-duty EPDM rubber liners for natural swimming pool construction

The Regeneration Zone: How Natural Pools Clean Themselves

The biological heart of a natural swimming pool is the regeneration zone. This is a planted area, separated from the swim zone or surrounding it, where aquatic plants and the microorganisms living in the gravel substrate beneath them remove nutrients, particularly phosphorus and nitrogen compounds, from the water. Emergent plants such as common reed (Phragmites australis), bulrush (Typha latifolia), yellow flag iris (Iris pseudacorus), and water plantain (Alisma plantago-aquatica) are the workhorses of the regeneration zone because their roots penetrate deep into the substrate and the biofilm of beneficial bacteria growing on the roots and gravel surfaces processes organic nutrients continuously.

The minimum regeneration zone sizing for a healthy natural pool is equal in area to the swim zone, meaning a 50/50 split between swim zone and plant zone for the total water area. Some designers advocate a 60/40 or even 70/30 split in favor of the regeneration zone for pools with high bather loads or in nutrient-rich environments. Under-sizing the regeneration zone is the most common cause of algae problems in natural pools.


EPDM, Butyl, Clay, and Bentonite: Liner Options for Natural Pools

The most widely used liner for natural swimming pools is EPDM rubber (ethylene propylene diene monomer), a flexible synthetic rubber that is fish-safe, plant-safe, UV-resistant, and durable enough to last 20 to 30 years under normal conditions. EPDM is available in large sheets that can be welded together on site to form a seamless waterproof membrane. It is black, which means it absorbs heat from sunlight and helps warm the pool water. The black color is not visible once the pool has established its ecosystem and the substrate and planting cover the liner surface.

Butyl rubber liner is the traditional pond liner material and is slightly more elastic than EPDM, making it easier to fold around complex shapes. Butyl is the default choice for many swimming pond projects in the UK and Europe. HDPE geomembrane is a more rigid material used where higher puncture resistance is needed, such as sites with sharp stones in the subsoil. Clay and bentonite lining uses a natural material that swells on contact with water to form a self-sealing impermeable layer. Clay-lined natural pools are the most ecological choice since the liner material itself is a natural sediment, but they require careful installation and are more susceptible to damage from burrowing animals and root penetration.

Water Quality and Maintenance

Water Quality, Algae, and Maintenance

The most common question people ask about natural pools is whether the water is actually safe to swim in. The short answer is yes, provided the pool is properly designed, correctly sized, and given time to establish its ecosystem. A well-functioning natural pool typically reaches bathing water quality standards, meaning it meets the same microbiological thresholds as supervised public bathing waters, within one to three growing seasons after construction.

Algae in Natural Swimming Pools

Algae is the most common concern for natural pool owners. A well-designed and properly established natural pool can remain virtually algae-free because the aquatic plants in the regeneration zone outcompete algae for the same nutrients, particularly phosphorus. When algae does appear, it is almost always a sign of nutrient overload: too many bathers, runoff from adjacent gardens or lawns carrying fertilizers, insufficient regeneration zone area, or a regen zone that has not yet established its full plant root biomass. Green water, a bloom of suspended green algae, is normal for newly constructed natural pools in the first season and typically clears as the plants establish. String algae growing on hard surfaces is a cosmetic issue that can be managed by hand removal and by introducing more oxygenating plants.

Phosphorus management is the key to long-term natural pool clarity. Phosphorus is the key nutrient to control in natural pools because algae and unwanted aquatic vegetation grow in response to phosphorus availability. Avoiding phosphate-containing fertilizers on the surrounding garden, ensuring surface runoff from the surrounding landscape does not drain into the pool, and maintaining a generous regeneration zone with a healthy plant biomass are the three most effective long-term strategies for keeping the water clear.

Shop Pond Water Test Kits on AmazonPhosphate, nitrate, and E.coli test kits for natural swimming pool water quality monitoring

Seasonal Maintenance of a Natural Swimming Pool

Natural pool maintenance follows the seasons rather than a fixed chemical dosing schedule. In spring, cut back the dead plant material from the previous year before new growth emerges, remove accumulated silt from the swim zone floor, check and clean the skimmer and pump if installed, and allow the first algal bloom of the season to pass naturally. In summer, thin any overgrowing emergent plants that are spreading into the swim zone, check water levels and top up if needed, and monitor water clarity for any change that might indicate an overload event. In autumn, remove fallen leaves before they decompose in the swim zone, carry out any planned regen zone planting of bare-root aquatic plants, and reduce or stop pump operation as the season closes. In winter, the pool does not need to be emptied or winterized like a conventional pool. The biological ecosystem goes dormant but remains intact, ready to resume activity in spring.


Water Temperature in Natural Pools

Natural swimming pools are generally cooler than conventionally heated pools. An unheated natural pool in a temperate climate typically reaches swimming temperature (around 18 to 22 degrees Celsius / 64 to 72 degrees Fahrenheit) in late spring and maintains that range through summer. South-facing pools, pools in sheltered locations, and pools with dark-colored liners warm earlier in the season and retain heat better. A pool heater can be added to a natural pool system but must be carefully specified to avoid disrupting the biological ecosystem. Heat pumps are compatible with natural pools when the flow rate through the heat exchanger is controlled to avoid thermal shock to the biological system. Many natural pool owners simply embrace the cool water as part of the experience, and winter swimming in a natural pool is increasingly popular among cold-water enthusiasts, particularly those who combine the pool with a sauna for traditional hot-cold contrast bathing.

Cost, Planning, and Construction

Natural Pool Cost, Planning Permission, and Construction

Cost Comparison: Natural Pool vs Conventional Pool

Natural swimming pools typically cost more to build than conventional pools of the same swimming area because the total project area is larger (swim zone plus regeneration zone) and the earthworks, liner, substrate, and planting for the regeneration zone add to the scope. Always get at least three written bids from NSP-specialist contractors before committing to a budget. A small natural plunge pool for a garden setting runs $18,000 to $45,000. A medium family natural pool with a properly sized regeneration zone runs $100,000 to $250,000. Large estate-scale swimming ponds run $200,000 to $500,000 or more. These figures represent professionally built and commissioned pools. Self-build and DIY natural pools can be built for significantly less using EPDM liner and sourced aquatic plants, but they require detailed knowledge of the biological system to succeed long-term.

Plunge NSP
$18k-45k
Small, minimal regen, urban garden
Garden NSP
$45k-100k
Small family pool, full regen zone
Family NSP
$100k-250k
Medium pool, planted regen, dock
Estate Pond
$200k-500k
Large, full habitat, multiple zones

The long-term economics favor natural pools significantly. The ongoing cost of a natural pool consists of electricity for the circulation pump (typically 50 to 200 watts for a small pump running year-round), seasonal plant maintenance, and occasional substrate topping. No chemicals. No chemical testing. No chlorine delivery. A conventionally chlorinated pool of equivalent size typically costs $1,500 to $4,000 per year in chemicals, testing, and water treatment. Over a 20-year ownership period, this represents $30,000 to $80,000 in chemical costs that a natural pool owner does not incur. On upfront construction cost, a small natural pool is competitive with or slightly more expensive than a comparable vinyl liner pool, but significantly less expensive than a gunite pool of the same swim area.


Planning Permission for Natural Swimming Pools

Planning permission requirements for natural swimming pools vary by jurisdiction. In the United States, a natural swimming pool is typically treated as a garden pond for planning purposes if it is not connected to a municipal water supply and does not use a chemical treatment system. Many municipalities require a building permit for any in-ground structure above a certain volume, and some jurisdictions with pool safety code requirements apply those requirements to natural pools regardless of whether they contain chemicals. Always check with your local building department before beginning design or construction. In the UK, a natural swimming pool below a certain surface area in a domestic garden typically does not require planning permission but environmental impact on nearby watercourses may trigger a separate consultation requirement.


The Construction Sequence for a Natural Swimming Pool

Natural pool construction follows a specific sequence that differs from conventional pool construction. The full excavation happens first, covering both the swim zone and the regeneration zone. The liner installation follows, creating a single continuous watertight membrane across both zones. The substrate layers are then placed in the regeneration zone: typically a 12 to 24-inch layer of washed gravel or crushed rock that provides the support structure and the surface area for biofilm growth. The swim zone floor is prepared with a thin layer of clean gravel or left as bare liner. Aquatic plants are installed in the regeneration zone substrate, and the pool is filled slowly. The entire ecosystem is then allowed to establish over one growing season before the pool is used heavily. A newly filled natural pool will typically be green and murky for the first 4 to 8 weeks before the plants and biofilm establish and water clarity improves.

Shop Pond Substrate and Gravel on AmazonWashed gravel and aquatic substrate for natural swimming pool regeneration zones
DIY, Self-Build, and Choosing a Designer

Self-Build Natural Pools and Choosing the Right Designer

Can I Build a Natural Swimming Pool Myself?

A self-build natural swimming pool is achievable for a confident DIY builder who is willing to invest time in understanding the biological system. The materials are not exotic: EPDM or butyl rubber liner, washed gravel, aquatic plants, and a small pond pump are all readily available. The skill required is primarily in sizing the system correctly, preparing the subsoil properly, installing the liner without punctures, and understanding the biological process well enough to respond intelligently when the water goes green in the first season (which it will) without reaching for chemicals.

The most common self-build mistakes are under-sizing the regeneration zone, using garden soil as a planting medium in the regen zone (which releases nutrients into the water and causes persistent algae), and adding fish to the swim zone before the ecosystem has stabilized. If you are taking the self-build route, invest in reading at least one comprehensive book on natural pool design before ordering materials. The difference between a successful self-build and a frustrating one is almost entirely in how well the designer understood the biology before breaking ground.

Shop Natural Pool Design Books on AmazonGuides and books on natural swimming pool and swimming pond construction

Choosing a Natural Pool Designer and Contractor

Natural swimming pool design is a specialist discipline and not every pool contractor has the biological knowledge or the construction experience to build one successfully. When interviewing designers and builders, ask specifically how many natural pools they have built and whether you can visit a completed project. Ask whether they have a background in aquatic ecology, not just pool construction. Ask how they size the regeneration zone for a given bather load. Ask what liner material they specify and why. Ask how they handle the establishment period and what support they provide if the pool develops clarity problems in the first season.

The most reputable natural pool designers are members of professional organizations such as the Natural Swimming Pool and Pond Association (NSPA) in Europe or have verifiable completed projects with satisfied owners. Get at least three written bids from qualified natural pool specialists, not general pool builders who claim they can do natural pools. The cost difference between an experienced NSP specialist and a general contractor attempting their first natural pool often results in a far better outcome for very similar money. A well-built natural pool is a genuinely low-maintenance, chemical-free feature that improves with age. A poorly built one creates years of frustration.

Installation Details and Practical Questions

Liner Underlay, Pool Safety, Saltwater, and Conventional Pool Comparison

Liner Underlay and Geotextile Protection Fleece

Every natural pool liner installation should include a protection layer between the liner and the excavated ground surface. This layer, called a liner underlay, pond underlay, or geotextile fleece, is a thick non-woven fabric that cushions the liner against any stones, roots, or sharp particles in the subsoil and prevents puncture damage from below. Without an underlay, a single sharp stone pressing against the liner under the weight of the water column can cause a slow leak that is very difficult to locate and repair. The standard specification is a 300 to 500 gram per square metre non-woven geotextile fabric covering the entire excavated surface before the liner is placed. An underlay is also placed on top of the liner in the regeneration zone before the gravel substrate is added, protecting the upper face of the liner from abrasion by the stones above it. Never skip the underlay: it is inexpensive insurance against the most common cause of natural pool liner failure.

Shop Pond Liner Underlay on AmazonGeotextile pond liner protection fleece for natural swimming pool installation

Pool Safety, Fencing, and Depth Markers for Natural Pools

Natural swimming pools are subject to the same residential pool safety requirements as conventional pools in most jurisdictions. In the United States this typically means a pool safety barrier, usually a fence of at least 48 inches high, around the perimeter of any in-ground water body used for swimming. The naturalistic design of an NSP can make this requirement feel architecturally awkward, but it is not negotiable. The most sympathetic solutions for natural pools are cleft chestnut paling or post-and-rail fences planted with climbing plants and hedging that become living barriers over time, or post-and-rope fencing for pools in larger garden settings where the perimeter is distant from the pool edge.

Depth markers are a practical safety measure for any pool deeper than wading depth. For natural pools with variable depth profiles or steeply sloping beach entries, a clear depth marker at the transition from shallow to deep water, even a simple post with a depth indicator, helps swimmers and visitors understand the water depth before entering. Natural material depth markers, such as a carved timber post or a painted stone, integrate into the naturalistic design while serving the safety function. For pools with children, visible depth cues at the shallow-to-deep transition are especially important because the visual clarity of natural pool water can make depth difficult to judge accurately.


Saltwater and Salt Chlorinator Compatibility with Natural Pools

A salt chlorinator system generates chlorine from dissolved salt in the water and is not compatible with a true natural swimming pool. The whole principle of a natural pool is biological filtration without disinfection chemicals: introducing a salt chlorinator would kill or suppress the biofilm on the gravel substrate and damage the roots of the aquatic plants in the regeneration zone, destroying the biological filtration system that keeps the water clean. A salt water pool is fundamentally a conventionally treated pool that uses electrolytic chlorine generation instead of added chlorine. It is a legitimate and excellent pool sanitation method, but it is a different system from a natural pool and the two approaches should not be combined. If you want natural aesthetics with guaranteed water clarity, consider a hybrid bio-pool that uses biological filtration as the primary system with a UV sterilizer as a backup. If you want a salt water pool, design it as a conventional pool with appropriate chemistry and do not attempt to use a planted regeneration zone as part of the system.


Natural Pool vs Gunite, Fiberglass, and Vinyl Liner Pools

Natural pools compete in the residential market with three conventional pool construction types: gunite (shotcrete concrete shell with plaster), fiberglass shell pools, and vinyl liner pools. Each comparison has a different answer depending on what the owner values most. On upfront construction cost, a small natural pool is competitive with or slightly more expensive than a comparable vinyl liner pool, but significantly less expensive than a gunite pool of the same swim area. On long-term operating cost, a natural pool is dramatically less expensive than any conventional type because there are no chemical costs. On swimming season, conventional heated pools can be used earlier and later in the season than most natural pools. On garden character, no conventional pool type can match the naturalistic quality of a well-designed swimming pond or NSP. On planning and permitting, natural pools are sometimes classified as garden water features rather than swimming pools in jurisdictions where this distinction has implications for permit requirements, setback rules, or fencing exemptions. Always verify the classification in your local jurisdiction before relying on any assumed regulatory difference.

FAQ

Natural Pool Questions Homeowners Ask

Is a natural swimming pool actually safe to swim in?+
Yes. A properly designed and established natural swimming pool meets or exceeds the microbiological standards for bathing water quality set by most regulatory bodies. The biological filtration system removes harmful bacteria through a combination of plant root uptake, biofilm predation, UV exposure at the water surface, and settlement. Unlike a conventional pool, the absence of chlorine means there are no disinfection by-products. The water is genuinely alive with beneficial microorganisms that support rather than compromise immune function. Swimming safety in a natural pool depends on good biological system design, adequate regeneration zone sizing, and allowing the ecosystem to establish fully before heavy use. Most natural pool owners report fewer skin and eye irritations than they experienced in chlorinated pools. The water is not sterile, just as a mountain stream is not sterile, but it is biologically safe for healthy swimmers. Young children, elderly swimmers, and immunocompromised individuals should swim in well-established pools with a track record of good water quality rather than newly constructed pools still in their first establishment season.
How large does the regeneration zone need to be?+
The minimum regeneration zone area recommended by most natural pool designers is equal to the swim zone area, meaning the total water body is at least 50 percent regeneration zone. This is based on the nutrient removal capacity of a healthy planted gravel substrate system under normal bather loads. For pools with higher bather use, such as family pools with children swimming daily through the summer, a 60 to 40 or even 65 to 35 split in favor of the regeneration zone gives a larger safety margin and helps the system handle peak load events without algae blooms. Under-sizing the regeneration zone is the single most common design mistake in natural pools and is the primary cause of ongoing water clarity problems. If you are working with a designer who proposes a regeneration zone smaller than 50 percent of the total water area without a specific justification, question that choice carefully. Shop Aquatic Plants for Regen ZonesReeds, rushes, iris, and marginal plants for natural pool regeneration
Do natural swimming pools attract mosquitoes?+
A well-designed natural pool does not create a mosquito problem. Mosquitoes breed in still, stagnant water. A natural pool with even gentle circulation from a pump or inlet keeps surface water moving enough to prevent mosquito larvae from establishing. The aquatic ecosystem itself also suppresses mosquitoes: water boatmen, diving beetles, dragonfly nymphs, and many other invertebrates that colonize natural pools prey actively on mosquito larvae. If the pool also has frogs and newts, the amphibian appetite for insects further reduces any mosquito pressure. Mosquito problems in garden water features are associated with isolated, stagnant containers and neglected ponds, not active, circulating natural swimming pools with a healthy food web.
Can I convert an existing chlorine pool to a natural pool?+
Yes, an existing conventional pool can be converted to a natural pool in many cases. The conversion involves removing or disconnecting the chemical dosing and filtration systems, cleaning all chlorine residue from the pool shell thoroughly (chlorine inhibits the biofilm needed for biological filtration), constructing a regeneration zone adjacent to or around the existing pool shell, installing the gravel substrate and aquatic planting in the regeneration zone, and allowing the ecosystem to establish before swimming. A rectangular concrete pool with a flat bottom is a good candidate for conversion because it provides a clean swim zone with a defined edge, and a regeneration zone can often be built adjacent to it using the existing pool structure as one wall. The main constraint is space: you need a site that can accommodate the regeneration zone area equal to the swim zone area.
How warm does a natural swimming pool get?+
An unheated natural swimming pool in a temperate climate (similar to the northern United States or the UK) typically reaches 18 to 22 degrees Celsius (64 to 72 degrees Fahrenheit) at peak summer. South-facing pools in sheltered locations can reach 24 to 26 degrees in warm summers. Dark-colored EPDM liners absorb solar radiation and warm faster than lighter-colored liner materials. Natural pools can be heated with a heat pump but this requires careful specification to avoid disrupting the biological system through thermal stress. Many natural pool owners find that the cool, fresh water is the most appealing characteristic of the pool and intentionally leave it unheated. The traditional Nordic sauna-and-cold-plunge practice pairs perfectly with a natural pool: 15 to 20 minutes in a sauna followed by full immersion in cool natural pool water is one of the most pleasurable and health-affirming combinations available in a residential garden setting.
Do natural pools need planning permission?+
Planning permission requirements vary by country, state, and local jurisdiction. In the United States, a natural swimming pool is typically treated as a garden water feature or a pond for planning purposes and may not require a swimming pool permit. However, most jurisdictions require a permit for any in-ground structure over a certain volume, and some apply residential pool safety code requirements (fencing, barrier height) regardless of whether the pool contains chemicals. In the UK and Europe, a natural swimming pool in a domestic garden below a certain size typically does not require planning permission under permitted development rights, but this depends on the exact size, location, and local planning authority. Always consult your local planning authority and building department before commencing any work. Permit requirements vary significantly between municipalities and between states. A good natural pool designer will be familiar with the permitting requirements in your area and should include this guidance as part of the design service.
What is the difference between a natural pool and a koi pond?+
A koi pond and a natural swimming pool are fundamentally incompatible for several reasons. Koi are heavy feeders that produce large quantities of waste, dramatically increasing the nutrient load in the water and making it very difficult for aquatic plants to keep up with the demand for nutrient removal. Koi also eat aquatic plants actively, which would destroy the regeneration zone. Koi ponds require mechanical filtration and water chemistry management specifically to handle the fish waste load. Natural swimming pools, by contrast, are typically fish-free in the swim zone. Some wildlife-oriented natural pools have small native fish such as sticklebacks or minnows which are part of the natural ecosystem and do not produce the waste load of ornamental fish. The presence of native fish in a natural pool is generally positive: they predate mosquito larvae, invertebrate pests, and string algae. The presence of large ornamental fish is incompatible with natural pool water quality.
How long does it take to establish a natural swimming pool?+
Most natural swimming pools go through three phases of establishment before reaching stable, clear water quality. In the first four to eight weeks after filling, the water is typically green or murky as algae takes advantage of the nutrient-rich water before the plants and biofilm are established. Over the following one to three months, the aquatic plants establish their root systems, the biofilm develops on the gravel substrate, and water clarity improves noticeably. By the end of the first growing season, most well-designed natural pools achieve their design water quality and are comfortable to swim in. Full ecological stability, including a diverse invertebrate community and balanced plant biomass, typically takes two to three growing seasons. Newly filled pools in warm climates establish faster than those in cold climates where the growing season is shorter. Patience in the first season is the most important characteristic a natural pool owner can have.
Can natural pools be used year-round?+
In temperate climates, most natural swimming pools are used from late spring to early autumn when the water temperature is comfortable. The pool itself does not need to be emptied or winterized in winter: the biological ecosystem simply goes dormant and resumes activity in spring. In cold climates where the pool surface freezes, the ice does no damage to a properly installed flexible liner. A natural pool can be heated for year-round use with a heat pump, and sauna-and-cold-pool combinations extend the winter bathing season significantly for those who enjoy cold water immersion. In warm climates with mild winters, natural pools can be swum year-round without heating. The absence of chlorine and chemical treatments means there is no chemical degradation that requires the pool to be drained and refilled: the water body simply continues its biological cycle through all seasons.
Is winter swimming possible in a natural pool?+
Yes, and it is increasingly popular among cold-water swimming enthusiasts. A natural pool does not need to be drained or heated for winter use. The biological ecosystem goes dormant in cold water but is not harmed by freezing at the surface. The pool can be swum in winter as long as there is open water available. Many natural pool owners combine winter swimming with a sauna on the same site: the traditional Scandinavian and Nordic practice of alternating between a hot sauna and cold water immersion is one of the most health-supporting activities available and pairs perfectly with the cool, clean water of a natural pool. Cold-water swimming builds cold adaptation, improves circulation response, reduces inflammation, and produces a powerful endorphin response that experienced practitioners describe as addictive. Entry temperatures below 10 degrees Celsius require some acclimatization but are safe for healthy adults who warm up properly afterward.
What should I ask when choosing a natural pool designer?+
Ask how many natural pools the designer has completed and whether you can visit a finished project and speak with the owner. Ask how they size the regeneration zone for your expected bather load. Ask what liner material they specify for your soil conditions and why. Ask whether they are members of a professional natural pool association such as the NSPA. Ask what support they provide during the establishment period, particularly if the water goes green in the first season. Ask for at least three client references from completed projects that are at least two years old, since a pool that is only six months old has not yet fully demonstrated its long-term water quality. Get at least three written bids from NSP specialists before choosing. The cheapest bid from an inexperienced builder will almost always cost more in the long run than a slightly higher quote from a specialist who has solved every likely problem before. Shop Natural Pool Books on AmazonExpert guides to natural swimming pool and swimming pond design
Do I need a liner underlay or protective fleece?+
Yes, a liner underlay or geotextile protection fleece is essential for every natural pool. It is placed between the excavated ground surface and the liner to cushion the liner against any stones, roots, or sharp particles in the subsoil. Without an underlay, a single sharp stone pressing against the liner under the weight of water can cause a slow puncture that is very difficult to locate and repair. The standard specification is a 300 to 500 gram per square metre non-woven geotextile fabric covering the entire excavated area. A second layer of underlay is placed on top of the liner in the regeneration zone before the gravel substrate is added, protecting the upper face of the liner from abrasion by the stones. Skipping the underlay is one of the most common and most avoidable natural pool installation mistakes. Shop Pond Liner Underlay on AmazonGeotextile fleece and underlayment for natural swimming pool liner protection
Can I use a saltwater system or salt chlorinator in a natural pool?+
No. A salt chlorinator generates chlorine from dissolved salt and would destroy the biological filtration system that makes a natural pool work. The biofilm on the gravel substrate and the root systems of the aquatic plants in the regeneration zone are both damaged by chlorine, even at the low concentrations produced by a salt chlorinator. If you want salt water sanitation, design a conventional pool and use a salt chlorinator in a standard filtration system. If you want a natural pool, the water is cleaned by biology alone and no disinfection chemical of any kind should be added. If water clarity is a concern and you want more certainty than pure biology provides, a UV sterilizer running on the recirculation line is the correct backup system for a natural pool: it provides an additional layer of pathogen reduction without adding any chemicals to the water and without harming the biological system.

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